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Guide

Winter driving and breakdown preparation

Winter does not create new faults so much as expose existing ones. Batteries, tyres, coolant and wipers that were merely adequate in September fail in the first hard frost, and the same handful of checks prevents most of it.

The battery is the single biggest cause

Cold weather reduces the current a battery can deliver while thickening the engine oil it has to turn, which is why the first frost produces a spike in non starts. If your battery is over four years old, cranks slowly on cold mornings, or your stop start system has quietly stopped working, get it load tested before winter rather than after. Short journeys are the other factor: a ten minute drive with headlights, heated screen, wipers and blower running takes more out of the battery than it puts back, so an occasional longer run or an overnight mains charge makes a real difference.

Tyres, tread and pressures

Grip is everything in winter, and it falls away long before the 1.6 millimetre legal minimum. Below roughly 3 millimetres of tread, wet braking distances lengthen noticeably and aquaplaning resistance drops. Cold air also reduces pressure, so check all four tyres monthly with a gauge when they are cold. Winter or all season tyres use a rubber compound that stays flexible below about seven degrees, and they transform grip on cold, wet and icy roads, not just in snow. If you regularly drive in exposed areas or start early on untreated roads, they are worth the outlay.

Fluids, wipers and visibility

Screenwash should be mixed to protect well below freezing, because plain water freezes in the reservoir and can split the pump or the lines. Check coolant strength as well, since weak antifreeze can freeze in the block and cause severe damage. Replace wiper blades that smear or judder, and never use the wipers to free blades frozen to the screen, as it tears the rubber and can burn out the motor. Clear all windows, mirrors and lights fully before setting off, along with snow on the roof, which slides onto the windscreen under braking. Driving with partially cleared glass is an offence in its own right.

Driving on ice and snow

Everything should be gentle: gentle steering, gentle braking, gentle acceleration. Pull away in second gear in a manual, or use the winter setting on an automatic, to reduce wheelspin. Leave far more space than usual, because stopping distances on ice can be ten times longer than on dry tarmac. Brake before a bend rather than in it, and if the car begins to skid, ease off the accelerator and steer gently where you want to go rather than braking hard. Black ice is most likely on bridges, in shaded lanes, under trees and in the early morning after a clear night.

Planning journeys in bad weather

Check the forecast and traffic before leaving, and be willing to delay. Tell somebody your route and expected arrival if conditions are poor. Keep the fuel tank above half, both to avoid condensation and because a queue on a closed motorway can last hours and you may need the engine running for heat. Charge your phone before setting off, and keep a power bank in the car. On electric vehicles, remember that cold weather reduces range significantly and that preconditioning while still plugged in preserves battery charge.

What to keep in the boot

A sensible winter kit is small: a torch with spare batteries or a wind up model, a foil blanket or a proper blanket, gloves and a warm hat, a high visibility vest, an ice scraper and de-icer, a small shovel if you are rural, a phone power bank, water and something to eat. Jump leads or a lithium jump pack cover the most common failure. A tow rope has limited legal use but a length of strong cord and a pair of work gloves are useful. None of it takes much space and all of it matters at the moment you need it.

If you do break down in winter

Get well off the carriageway, hazard lights on, and dress for standing outside before you leave the car. On a motorway, wait behind the barrier as always, but put every layer on first, because cold sets in quickly when you are stationary and possibly wet. Tell the recovery operator if you are exposed, alone, with children, or in a rural spot with poor phone signal, as most prioritise vulnerable callers. Keep the phone conversation short to preserve battery and agree a call back rather than staying on the line.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need winter tyres in Birmingham?
They are not compulsory, but winter or all season tyres give noticeably better grip below about seven degrees, which covers a large part of the UK winter, not just snowy days.
Why do so many batteries fail in winter?
Cold reduces the current a battery can deliver while thicker oil makes the engine harder to turn, so any battery that was already weak is exposed on the first hard frost.
Is it illegal to drive with snow on the roof?
You must have a clear view of the road and your lights and plates must be visible, so driving with obscured glass or snow that slides onto the screen can leave you liable.
What should I keep in the car in winter?
A torch, blanket, warm layers, high visibility vest, scraper and de-icer, phone power bank, water and a snack, plus jump leads or a jump pack.
Should I warm the engine up on the driveway?
Leaving an unattended engine running on a public road is an offence and can invalidate insurance if the car is stolen. Clear the glass properly and drive gently instead.

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